In the beauty and personal care world, many studies uncovered a concerning trend: the widespread presence of per- and poly-fluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in cosmetics. This revelation is not just a minor footnote in the extensive list of cosmetic ingredients but a significant health and environmental concern.
PFAS are a group of about 15,000 manufactured chemicals known for their durability and water resistance, which are used to make products such as food packaging, cooking pots, clothing, and water and stain-resistant carpeting. These traits make them also ideal for cosmetic products like waterproof mascara, long-lasting lipstick, and foundation that withstand our hectic lifestyle. However, the flip side of these benefits is a range of potential health risks, including hormonal disruptions, immune system impairments, birth defects, liver disease, and a higher risk of certain cancers. Indeed, they are often dubbed "forever chemicals" because they do not naturally break down and have been found to accumulate in humans (Llamas, 2023).
The peer-reviewed study "Fluorinated Compounds in North American Cosmetics," published in the Environmental Science & Technology Letters, investigated the prevalence of PFAS in various cosmetic products, focusing on North American cosmetics. The researchers analyzed 231 products and found alarming levels of fluorine, a precursor and indicator of PFAS, in many items, especially foundations, mascaras, and lip products. This finding is concerning because it suggests a widespread, often undisclosed, use of these chemicals in products directly applied to our skin, which are then absorbed into our bodies (Whitehead et al., 2021).
Figure 1: Whitehead et al., 2016, depiction of PFAS absorption paths in human bodies.
Moreover, the study highlighted a critical gap in consumer awareness and product labeling. In both the U.S. and Canada, current regulations do not mandate the disclosure of all PFAS compounds in cosmetic products. This lack of transparency leaves consumers unknowingly exposed to these potentially harmful chemicals. Another 2022 study confirmed how cosmetics and personal care products can contain extremely high levels of PFAS, undoubtedly “leading to human and environmental exposure” (Harris et al., 2022). That finding was further supported by another study where researchers added PFOA to sunscreen that a male volunteer used for three weeks and measured transdermal absorption levels of this chemical into the bloodstream. After 22 days, PFOA levels increased continuously, reaching 9.4%, demonstrating how applying PFOA-laden sunscreen results in a higher PFOA count in the bloodstream (Abraham & Monien, 2022).
Unfortunately, cosmetics are not the only products that are affected. Even more alarming is the amount of PFAS found in our drinking water! A 2020 study estimated that “18–80 million people in the U.S. receive tap water with 10 ng/L or greater concentration of perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and perfluorooctanesulfonate (PFOS) combined” while 200 million drink water with a concentration at or above 1 ng/L, which is the equivalent of 1 part per trillion that several experts believe is the recommended safe level for PFAS in drinking water (Andrews & Naidenko, 2020; EWG, 2020). While we could choose not to use cosmetics to reduce our exposure, we most definitely need to drink water, and most of us rely on tap water daily. What is even scarier? There is no national, legally enforceable standard for any PFAS in drinking water in the United States. However, progress is being made as the EPA announced in 2023 new proposed limits “based on evaluating additional scientific information” (US EPA, 2023a, p. 1). These regulations, known as National Primary Drinking Water Regulations (NPDWRs), are designed to establish legally enforceable Maximum Contaminant Levels (MCLs) for six specific PFAS. The proposed MCLs are set at 4 parts per trillion (ppt) for two (PFOA and PFOS) based on what current tests can detect, while Maximum Contaminant Level Goals (MCLGs) for PFOA and PFOS are set at zero due to identified cancer risks (Kirchner, 2023; US EPA, 2023a). The EPA is expected to finalize these new drinking water standards by September 3, 2024, and drinking water utilities will likely have three to five years to comply with them (EWG, 2023; US EPA, 2023b). We have a long road ahead, but we are finally moving in the right direction!
So, what can we, as consumers, do to mitigate our exposure to PFAS in cosmetics? Here are a few suggestions:
Educate Yourself: Start by learning about PFAS and their potential health impacts. Familiarize yourself with the most common types of these chemicals found in cosmetics. The easiest way is to reference the Environmental Working Group guide to safer skin care products at www.ewg.org/skindeep. For instance, try to avoid ingredients like triclocarban in bar soaps, triclosan in liquid soaps and toothpaste, retinyl palmitate or retinol in daytime products, formaldehyde, parabens, phthalates, and oxybenzone, which are known carcinogens, endocrine disruptors, and irritants (DiLonardo, 2010). Remember that “fragrances” can trigger allergic reactions because they may contain hundreds of chemicals.
Read Labels Carefully: While labeling laws are not comprehensive, some products do list PFAS in their ingredients. Look for terms like "PTFE" or "perfluoro" on the ingredient list.
Choose PFAS-Free Products: As awareness grows, more brands are committing to PFAS-free products. Support these brands by purchasing their products and encourage others to follow suit. You can use the EWG's Healthy Living or Yucca apps to help you select safer products and always rely on Annalisa's Garden options!
Demand Transparency and Alternatives: Advocate for stricter labeling laws and regulations regarding PFAS in cosmetics. Consumer pressure can drive regulatory changes and safer formulations!
The beauty industry has long been a space for self-expression and confidence-building. However, this must not come at the expense of our health and well-being. As consumers, we have purchasing power and can drive change to ensure that what we apply to our skin enhances our lives without poisoning us.
References
Abraham, K., & Monien, B. H. (2022). Transdermal absorption of 13C4-perfluorooctanoic acid (13C4-PFOA) from a sunscreen in a male volunteer – What could be the contribution of cosmetics to the internal exposure of perfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS)? ScienceDirect, 169https://https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envint.2022.107549
Andrews, D. Q., & Naidenko, O. V. (2020). Population-Wide Exposure to Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances from Drinking Water in the United States. Environmental Science & Technology Letters, 7(12), 931-936. https://https://doi.org/10.1021/acs.estlett.0c00713
DiLonardo, M. J. (2010, August 25). What Chemicals Are in Your Personal Care Products? WebMD. Retrieved Jan 26, 2024, from https://www.webmd.com/children/features/personal-care-products
EWG. (2020, October 14). Study: More Than 200 Million Americans Could Have Toxic PFAS in Their Drinking Water. Environmental Working Group. Retrieved Jan 22, 2024, from https://www.ewg.org/news-insights/news-release/study-more-200-million-americans-could-have-toxic-pfas-their-drinking
EWG. (2023, March 14). EPA proposes bold new limits for tackling 'forever chemicals' in drinking water. Environmental Working Group. Retrieved Jan 23, 2024, from https://www.ewg.org/news-insights/news-release/2023/03/epa-proposes-bold-new-limits-tackling-forever-chemicals-drinking
Harris, K. J., Munoz, G., Woo, V., Sauve', S., & Rand, A. A. (2022). Targeted and Suspect Screening of Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products. Environmental Science & Technology, 56(20), 14594-14604. https://https://doi.org/10.1021/acs.est.2c02660
Kirchner, L. (2023, March 14). EPA Proposes Enforceable Limits for PFAS ‘Forever Chemicals' in Drinking Water. https://www.consumerreports.org/water-contamination/epa-proposes-enforceable-limits-for-pfas-in-drinking-water-a1008257858/#:~:text=Where%20the%20EPA%E2%80%99s%20earlier%20guidelines%20suggested%20that%20the,would%20limit%20them%20to%20just%204%20ppt%20each.
Llamas, M. (2023, August 16). Scientists Fight Toxic Forever Chemicals With Innovative Solutions. https://www.drugwatch.com/news/2023/08/16/bacteria-destroy-pfas-forever-chemicals/
US EPA, O. W. (2023a, March 29). Drinking Water Health Advisories for PFOA and PFOS. EPA. Retrieved Jan 23, 2024, from https://www.epa.gov/sdwa/drinking-water-health-advisories-pfoa-and-pfos
US EPA, O. W. (2023b, March 14). Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances (PFAS) - Proposed PFAS National Primary Drinking Water Regulation. EPA. Retrieved Jan 23, 2024, from https://www.epa.gov/sdwa/and-polyfluoroalkyl-substances-pfas
Whitehead, H. D., Venier, M., Wu, Y., Eastman, E., Urbanik, S., Diamond, M., Shalin, A., Schwartz-Narbonne, H., Bruton, T. A., Blum, A., Wang, Z., Green, M., Tighe, M., Wilkinson, J. T., McGuinness, S., & Peaslee, G. F. (2021). Fluorinated Compounds in North American Cosmetics. Environmental Science & Technology Letters, 8(7), 538–544. https://https://doi.org/10.1021/acs.estlett.1c00240
Comments